Climbers’ camps were searched, their comms gear confiscated, and unprecented censorship of their reports was imposed. Many expedition flights were grounded, and on the Nepalese New Year last week, Kathmandu was reportedly not in very a festive mood.
In other news: a difficult summit push has started on the never before attempted Dhaulagiri west ridge.
Everest under the law of silence Following directions from China; Nepal’s Army imposed an iron-fist censorship on Everest teams. A meeting last week in BC between army officials, L.O. and expedition leaders resulted in a list of regulations meant to cut off all communications between those on the mountain and the rest of the world. Laptops, sat-phones and cameras were confiscated, leaving the climbers with just radios to communicate among themselves – and their conversations were to be eavesdropped. Even trekkers were to be prevented to bring their cameras and phones beyond Gorak Shep.
Tibet: Don't even name it Canadian climber François-Guy Thivierge added, “...we shall not mention the words “Tibet” or “Free Tibet” – we can’t speak about the subject, neither can we say anything which could sound offensive towards China. It is also forbidden to wear T- shirts or to show any symbol referring to China or Tibet while in the area.”
Peak Freaks Tim Rippel reported there would be police officers on watch up to C2, in order to properly monitor the climbers’ progress. Peak Freaks alternative plan for comms are hand-written notes that friends could post from Namche. However, even these notes are to first be read by officials in BC.
Chief "climbing and security" leader on Everest south side is a Nepalese Army Major, reportedly keeping a low profile while running around and single-handedly overseeing order. There are Maoist checkpoints enroute to BC and some trekkers are reportedly still forced to pay "revolutionary fees."
All climbers ExWeb spoke to agree something is fishy in the recent Nepal election. One reported on April 10 (election day): "Kathmandu looks very different today from what it's usually like: it's almost like a ghost town. Another reported a few days later, “This climate of apprehension is due to the pressure put by the Maoists on Nepal’s people. The Maoists threatened to take retaliation against the people in case they lost the elections. Fear spread among the population and thus the Maoist party has obtained a majority of votes in the polls.”
China's iron fist "China is starting to scare me," an American adventure news colleague wrote to ExWeb after the dictators managed to impose an iron-fist censorship on international climbers even outside of its own borders, on a mountain owned by Tibet and Nepal. The Olympic torch not even close to the south side of Everest; after the comms meeting the Nepalese Army actually searched all camps confiscating satellite phones, VHF radios, pda's, computers, video cameras etc without a warrant.
Who are the new liaison officers in BC? On March 6th this year (4 days before the Everest north side ban) ExWeb reported that Nepal was to allow Everest Sherpa summiteers to work as liaison officers (instead of the former non-climbing government officials). At least five would start the new career this spring. The move reportedly came in response to a request from both mountaineers and "mountaineering experts." However, without climbing officers the recent climbing ban on Everest south side would have been hard to enforce. It's more likely that Nepal and China had their plan laid out all along: the source for the ExWeb report was in fact not Nepal but Chinese Xinhua.
As for Nepal's ties with China, according to CCTV.com, Nepal's Consul General in Lhasa expressed hope that the Chinese government will continue to help Tibet's development and that his country will fully support Beijing's plan to take the Olympic torch to the top of Mount Qumolangma. Qumolangma is the Chinese name for Everest. The Nepalese name for Mount Everest is Sagarmatha.
India next? India should work with Nepal's communist leaders to develop ties between the neighboring countries, Prachanda said following last week's election according to Bloomberg. However, according to a report by Globalsecurity.org they already have - for years. The news source reported already in 2005 that officials of the Royal Nepal Army called a press conference and played a tape that showed the government of India secretly keeping ties with the Maoist rebels. The Indian Embassy in Kathmandu denied the allegations. This week, China expressed its thanks to India one day after the Olympic torch relay passed off under a massive security cover in New Delhi.
They are lying to us! Flashback at China's promises "China will not limit the number of expeditions in 2008," said Chinese officials on September 4, 2007. On October 3, 2007, spokesman Ang Tshering reported: "They [China] have once again assured us that there will be no limitations on Everest, only stricter criteria to fulfill. Also, they have once again assured us that there will be no restriction to climbing during the summit push of the Olympic flame." This only a few examples of what what ExWeb found when doing a quick search of China's promises to international mountaineers.
Election not the only reason for grounded flights? ”I was led to believe that helicopter flights in general had been halted in order that they might be called into use by the Nepalese government in times of crisis," reported David Tait. "However, the election came and went. Eventually, I was told that sufficient pressure had been brought to bear by the Chinese embassy so that the Nepalese effectively prohibited anyone flying towards BC. Emergency evacuation flights would still be allowed, but only after authorization from the ‘very top', ” he reported.
Katja and Menno reported to ExWeb that they arrived in Manaslu base camp on foot. "We didn't fly because foreigners are not allowed to fly," the climbers said, "by a new law of the Nepal aviation authority in relation with the unstable situation in Tibet. Or so we have been told."
For most mountaineers, climbing Everest is the adventure of their life and not all are rich, wrote ExWeb. Some have mortgaged their homes, others have taken loans and many have invested in technology to stay in touch with family, friends, schools and youth programs. Now, they are not allowed to even snap pictures in BC.
ExplorersWeb will use the ban for increased special reports about human rights abuse in China, such as the organ donor business, the treatment of Tibetan and other minorities, the slave force who built the Olympic village and the nation's ties to Nepal Maoists.
ExWeb special NSS report: Star Wars China Everest is but a poignant example of how China treats the world if allowed. In a special report from Colorado Springs National Space Symposium one week before last, this time team ExWeb focused not on Mars rockets but a 30-minute speech by China specialist Mr Dean Cheng. Turns out that while most countries have a large number of satellites aimed at self defense; according to Dean, the Peoples' Liberation Army satellite research seem poised for...attack. Read all about the aggressive strategy but also alleged lies, espionage, and thefts trailing China's space program.
Due to the Everest blackout, the "Climbers Without Borders" 2008 hotline allows climbers, their relatives and friends to report anonymously from the mountain. Pls call (1) 206-666-2407 (from a sat phone pls dial 001-206-666-2407). State your name and message (your name will be withheld). ExplorersWeb will accept anonymous reports provided they are made by sources known to ExWeb.
Feelings are tense also among Everest climbers. “As I was bringing up the rear of our group heading toward the icefall through another team's camp, a bearded, self important looking flatulence emitter came blustering over at me sternly asking me not to pass through their camp again,” vented Andrew Brash. “I have been in many base camps over the years and have never, never encountered anything like this before.”
Dhaulagiri west ridge SUMMIT PUSH Valery and Nikolay have started their attempt to climb a new route on the west ridge of Dhaulagiri. Nobody ever tried to climb this difficult but very elegant ridge, rising sharply 1.5km up above the Italian Base Camp. The line starts at 3700 m and ends at 8167 m. Descent will go along the normal route on the north-east ridge.The very dangerous and demanding ascent is done in light, alpine style, without fixed ropes or pre-established camps.
Spaniard Juan Oiarzabal said he is climbing independently, although he shares permit with a large Basque team. “I am doing it my way,” Oiarzabal told Spanish paper Marca . “I don’t have to reach agreements with anyone; don’t need to give any kind of explanations. I have a high-altitude Sherpa and my own team of porters, so that I’ll go up right when I feel to. I had always enjoyed my climbing mates’ company; I liked having friends by my side - but this time will be different.” Some weeks ago, Juanito was rejected as member in Al Filo de lo Imposible´s Dhaulagiri expedition (currently on the way and featuring Edurne Pasaban and Ivan Vallejo). The 21x8000er summiteer, who had collaborated with Al Filo Spanish TV series for almost a decade, decided then to attempt Makalu instead.
Andrew Lock is definitely going for Makalu and forgetting about his planned double-header. “It looks as though Shisha Pangma isn't going to happen this season, or at least not in the next few weeks, as the border to Tibet remains closed and the proposed opening date of 1 May now seems unlikely,” Andrew reported.
Miss Hawley told Denis Urubko there have never been so many climbers attempting Makalu as this season: about 50 foreigners and a large number of Nepalese climbers.
Andalusia/Basques and Lolo GonzalesHe summited Cho Oyu in winter and told ExWeb he joined the GII East expedition for the exploratory side of the climb, "the feeling of loneliness, the lack of information, the uncertainty of the route we will follow…" Funny enough, that can be found on Everest these days, but that's not where Lolo is headed. Lolo is going with an Andalusian/Basque team to Makalu. The climbers arrived KTM on April 7, stocked up for the climb and packed their gear in a city paralyzed by elections. Then it was off to Lukla and a road less traveled to Makalu BC; across three cols at 6,000+ and the summit of Inja Seth (Island Peak), located at the foot of the South face of Lhotse.
ExWeb special on 2008 Annapurna expeditions Annapurna is statistically the most dangerous mountain today, and at least ten times deadlier than Everest. Year after year, climbers return to Annapurna despite its bad rep (earned in large part due to the high risk of avalanche) and this spring, Annapurna has an extra fine bunch of climbers visiting. ExWeb ran a special report on the climbers and their routes.
Everest skydive You've seen the ad, "Skydive Everest." 23 people have signed up for the skydive in October according to thisishampshire.net. Seasoned skydiving camerawoman Holly Budge, 29, will attempt the jump solo, wearing an oxygen mask and a parachute three times the normal size from record-breaking 29,500ft. The free fall will reach speeds of 180mph, 60mph faster than under normal conditions, and land on the world's highest drop zone at 12,350ft.
GHM's call for Olympic torch protests The French mountaineering organization GHM (original Piolet d'Or) is the latest of mountaineers protesting the Olympic torch in Tibet. "...we consider that China's plan to hoist the Olympic flame on top of Everest is wounding for the Tibetan population and fundamentally degrading for Himalaya in general, and Everest in particular. Consequently, we ask all our fellow-member guides and mountaineer amateurs of all countries to take no part to facilitate the realization of this project...we also call national and international mountaineering authorities, national trade associations and UIAGM, as well as all the national alpine clubs to also declare themselves officially against this operation and collaborate in this matter by all means."
Climbers and explorers wishing to stage a protest for Tibet are offered by ExplorersWeb to either fly a Tibetan flag or write "Free Tibet" on any feature in their surrounding (such as in the snow, on rocks, in the sand etc) and send the image marked with name, date and location to team@explorersweb.com for publishing.
The new issue of online magazine Adventure Sports Weekly went up Wednesday. The news resource ran a story of China's action, with news about Alberto Peruffo's red smoke signal protest, suggesting that it be done everywhere, not just on mountains.
Norwegian skier flies Tibetan flag at the North Pole "It was an honor to bring the Tibetan flag to the northernmost point on earth. I hope my action will inspire the people in Tibet and the rest of the world to continue the fight for human rights." Norwegian Inge Solheim who was part of the BBC-series about the Amundsen-Scott expedition to the South Pole (with Rune Gjeldnes featuring Amundsen) skied the last degree to the North Pole last week and brought the China-banned flag with him. "It's important to support the Tibetan people because their peaceful quest is met with violence and brutality. They are marginalized in their own country, and many have been forced to flee abroad," Solheim wrote from the North Pole.