Nepal elections 60% turnout, people cheering and relative calm: international observers, including former US President Jimmy Carter, deemed the Nepal election "free and fair." Carter has also stated that it's wrong of US to still consider the Maoists terrorists. Over the years, the Maoist have gained power not by elections, but by extensive brutal violence. According to Red Star; Maoist leader Prachanda is close to Chicago based RIM led by Bob Avakian with members such as the "Shining Path" of Peru and the self-proclaimed objective of "world wide revolution by force." Prior to the elections, the Maoists were visited in Nepal by the chairman of Chinese SMG - part of SMEG - one of the largest media conglomerates in China; suggesting ties between the Nepalese Maoists and China. Prachanda has said that he would not allow the Dalai Lama office to reopen in Nepal, and that the Maoists regard Tibet as inseparable part of China. The current election results could prove a tragedy not only for the poor country's business folks who already suffered massive extortions by the group; but also to minorities and Tibetan refugees in Nepal.
US Climbers protest Olympic torch in Tibet They were so fast that the police reportedly could do nothing but wait below the bridge for the three climbers to come down at their leisure. The men scaling the Golden Gate Bridge with "Free Tibet" banners were only the latest in protests trailing the torch relay last week. Protesters made the torch's journey through London more like "running the gauntlet than a journey of celebration," according to AP, while in Paris, the Olympic torch relay was cut short after authorities were forced to ride buses and play hide and seek with protesters armed with fire extinguishers.
Athletes, banned tourists and secret IOC memos In statements to media, some athletes said their only goal is to win a gold medal; while others made statements for human rights. Meanwhile, media reported that trekking agencies in Tibet received verbal notices last week to stop arranging trips for foreigners. The governor of Tibet told reporters in Beijing that anyone attempting to disrupt the torch's journey on his watch "will be dealt with severely." Reporters Without Borders, a press freedom organization, published excerpts from a 26-page IOC memo on the Olympic torch relay marked "confidential." The memo shows that IOC works closely with the Chinese when it comes to "what to tell the press."
Latest word from Everest BC From KTM, Andalusian female climber Lina reported that satellite phones will be stored with authorities in Everest BC; and making a call will require one hour notice. From BC, Peak Freaks reported that completion of the April 10 election could mean the arrival of the Liaison Officers who are selected to search and monitor electronic equipment and enforce the communications ban.
Max alone for Manaslu, joining permit with German ski-mountaineers Climbing buddies Max Zhumaev and Vaso Pivtsov each summited eleven 8000ers, and hoped to add Manaslu, Lhotse and perhaps even K2 to their list this year. But all the Everest regulations gave organizers and sponsors cold feet. Latest is that Max, the only of the two receiving sponsorship, has joined an independent group of German ski-mountaineers for Manaslu. The guys originally planned to ski Shisha, but had to reroute due to the Chinese ban. "Max will only share the service up to basecamp and the permit. Above basecamp we are working in two groups. There he will be on his own," reported leader of the expedition, Thomas Laemmle.
Katja Staartjes team originally planned to go to Shisha Pangma, but has rerouted for Manaslu due to the Tibet situation. Members are: Katja Staartjes, Henk Wesselius, Niels van Veen, Miriam Knepper, and Menno Boermans. The team and two Sherpas will climb the normal route.
Another team for Annapurna - Ueli Steck's comeback The Khumbu Express; the Young Spider on the Eigernordwand, summit of GII East (7,758 m) via a new route on the peak's north side; and a solo, alpine style attempt on Annapurna. In only a few years time Swiss Ueli Steck has made a name for himself and now he is back, for Annapurna, together with Simon Anthamatten. The attempt comes after Ueli's recent speed Record on the Eigernordwand (2h47min).
Kukuczka Chorten unveiled, "to those who stayed for ever" On March 22, while in Khumbu to acclimatize before their upcoming Dhaulagiri climb; Artur Hajzer and Robert Szymczak unveiled the Kukuczka Chorten built in memory of three Polish Himalayan climbers who died attempting the legendary south face of Lhotse: Rafal Cholda (fell in 1985); Czeslaw Jakiel (killed by a serac avalanche in 1987) and Jerzy Kukuczka (fell in 1989). "I devoted three seasons to the south face of Lhotse (that is my entire career), and I spent quite a number of days there. I found the moments at the chorten extremely moving – when I return to those days and those great people in my thoughts, I feel deep sorrow," said Artur Hajzer.
Tryptych summits Ama Dablam - Pustelnik & team on to Annapurna The acclimatization stage of the mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition was completed when all members of the team reached the summit of Ama Dablam. Piotr Pustelnik said the climb is a different story in spring, and harder than expected. "The mountain is technically very challenging and [...] I'm rather astonished that many commercial trekking companies offer Ama Dablam to potential clients."
Already last year Japanese Yuichiro Miura said he hoped to climb with the Chinese Everest Olympic team but if not, he'd climb on his own and carry his own torch. Last week Miura applied for a Nepal climbing permit and so the south side it is. Miura, 75, will be one of at least three 70+ seniors attempting the peak this year.
July last year, Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli summited his final 8000er as only the sixth mountaineer in the world to have done it without supplementary oxygen. The quest took 14 hard years, and Gnaro said, "I think it's going to take a long time before I find a good enough reason to leave my family for Himalaya again." But then added: "However, a wolf might lose his hair, but not his call." Bald as ever, Gnaro is already back in Himalaya. On April 7, Marco Confortola, Gnaro and Michele left Italy for the scientific Share Everest expedition. After Everest, Marco will continue to K2.
More new faces for Everest: Stephan Keck, Rodrigo Raineri, Eduardo Keppke and Latvia Austrian Stephan Keck will ski-run Everest, without porters and without supplementary oxygen, "by fair means." Thus his expedition is named "Everest Back to the Roots." Other newcomers are Brazilian Rodrigo Raineri (the late Vitor Negrete's mate) and Eduardo Keppke (no 02). Also expedition Latvia led by Atis Plakans, Liga Plakane, and Kaspars Klapkalns.
Valery and Nikolay on Dhaulagiri west face new route attempt were headed for their third acclimatization push late last week, a climb up to 7200-7500 m planned to take about 3-4 days.
On April 8 a helicopter finally delivered the Spanish Al Filo team to Dhaulagiri BC.
Juanito Oiarzabal and his Basque team are currently acclimatizing up the Khumbu valley, since the cols leading to Makalu BC are blocked with loads of fresh snow. Rope-fixing on the mountain is due to start by April 20th.
Denis Urubko’s team is also headed for Makalu, normal route. Expedition members are Denis, Svetlana Sharipova (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007), Eugeny Shutov (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007 and was part of the recent Makalu winter attempt) and Boris Dedeshko (who on March 27- 28 managed the highest grade technical climb in Kyrgyzstan with Denis; Korona 5th bastion, 6 Russian grade.) If Makalu goes well, Denis plans a speed attempt on Cho Oyu by end of May (China permitting).
Greenland: First expedition underway – the return journey Alex Hibbert and George Bullard are well underway on their Greenland return expedition. Their aim is to complete the longest fully unsupported polar journey of all time, 1400 miles, starting near Kulusuk and turn around at Baffin Bay.
Ellesmere Island: Polar bears and rough ice Will Steger and his team report polar bears and rough ice. "The terrain was an awesome new challenge for both ourselves and the dogs as we navigated and hauled our sleds through.”
Greenland: Speed record attempt experiencing headwinds Two Danish men, Per Jessen and Søren Hvalsøe are underway with their speed record attempt along the classic west-east route on Greenland. They experience high winds from the front, the east, that slow down their progress and their aim to ski 40 km per day.
Ice cream stick Viking ship headed from Holland to America Last Sunday at 7 am, American Robert McDonald set out on his voyage with an "ice cream stick ship", to sail across the Atlantic from Holland to the United States. The replica of a Viking ship is built, literally, with 15 million ice cream sticks and the goal is to explore the ancient Vikings' probable route towards the west.
Lit your own flame in May: become part of Alberto Peruffo's mountain project for human rights You'll need a watch synchronized to local time, and a camera to document your ignition/ascent. The ignitions will be coordinated and subdivided according to geographical areas and local times. Climber/artist Alberto Peruffo calls for climbers around the world to light red flares for Tibet; the pics eventually to be put together in his grand art project.