Clients fighting back: 2007 north side Everest climber sues commercial outfitter Races between high altitude climbers are against all mountaineering experience and medical expertise. Rushing it can cost you fingers and toes, at best. Volker Kuebler says his outfitter on Everest North side Kari Kobler pushed his clients to climb higher when they were ill, and used all available summit Sherpas for a favorite client and his own summit attempt. "To me this was an once-in-a-lifetime experience. I used parts of my life-savings for it and expected responsible guiding and treatment," says Volker who now plans to sue.
Clients fighting back: Betsy Huelskamp's Everest story Following her expedition with Himex, filmed and aired to the world by the Discovery channel, Betsy Huelskamp posted her own version of the events online. Mates and guides cursed at her, she says. The leader threw her things around and on camera accused her of misrepresenting her experience - an accusation Betsy disproved by posting her intro letter to Brice.
Michael Matthews Everest story - by ExplorersWeb founders "You're doing news, right? We're not supposed to speak to you." ExWeb founders told their own story of young Michael Matthews - whose tragedy didn't end with his death on Everest - but, according to the father, continued in cover ups all the way to the British Alpine Club. The case almost went to criminal court until a London judge, after conferring with 'British mountaineering experts', ruled that it should be dismissed. ExWeb published the testimonies and statements, now part of official records.
Winter Makalu: All lost, team evacuated "It was an inferno," Luca recalled. The wind almost lifted the climbers up in the air, ripped their supply tents off the ground and scattered their gear over an area of at least 1 km (over half a mile). With little rest and nothing to eat, Nives injured her leg the next day en route to Hillary BC. In another long day, climbers hauled her to the lower camp where spare supplies were kept. Fortunately, the team's doctor friend Manuel Julies (owner of the Infinite Knot agency) organized a rescue and in spite of winds of up to 100 km/h at the 6000 meter (20,000 ft) HBC level; a Russian helicopter managed to recover all three climbers and take Nives to a hospital in Kathmandu.
Broad Peak winter update: C1 stocked with C3 supplies In spite 60+ 8000er summits between them, Himalaya has already sent the majority of her winter climbers packing. Only Simone, Shaheen and Qudrat now remain. The three planned to go back up on the mountain today (Sunday), and establish C3. Simone said that with 1 month of supplies left, his team will be patient. "I'm positive that this bastard winter will stop shaking our tents one of these days and our strength will return with the sun."
Monday a big day in Pakistan - unrelated the Karakoram winter climb Civilians rally to prevent vote rigging for the upcoming election, in the wake of the assassination of Benazir Bhutto. Two suspects in custody have confessed of their involvement in the murder plot Pakistan officials said last week. In the election, voters will choose the next prime minister; possibly for Bhutto's PPP and President Pervez Musharraf in a governing coalition. In addition, new governments for tribal areas run in part by conservative Islamist parties will be selected.
Expedition Deep Cold debrief: winter exploration and first ascents in remote NE Patagonia Ice Cap He led the first complete crossing of the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap and then the first complete winter crossing of the Northern Patagonian Ice Cap. In July last year (the winter season in Chile), orthopedist surgeon Pablo Besser took his friends back, this time to explore and climb the little known north-east side of the cap. The team climbed up to the plateau through Cristal pass, and pulled sleds to peaks they ski-mountaineered in striking sunsets. They made a number of first winter ascents including the technical Cerro Largo, and built igloos for camps. Pablo shot over his debrief, along with a set of stunning images.
Last call for new routes for the next American Alpine Journal "Please become a part of climbing's permanent history by sending us your new-route report from 2007! The deadline is officially past, but we need to record every climb possible, so please respond as soon as possible." This is the last call for new routes for the next American Alpine Journal. Recording new climbs since 1929, the AAJ is the one place where (almost) all the world's new mountain routes are recorded for the benefit of all the world's climbers.
North Pole Winter update One of their stoves busted (they used both previously to warm their tent) Matvey Shparo and Boris Smolin have now also dropped 20 kg of gear - including two video cameras, for their finish from 86° 15' N. Traveling in perpetual darkness for 53 days already, the two say they have no hallucinations apart from food cravings, but only their phone calls with Moscow let them know what day of the week it is. The going is tough, spirits are lowest at daybreak but improve on marching. The explorers say their expedition feels like a solo as they can't talk much and besides - after 10 years of friendship - they know everything about each other anyway. “We both are dreaming about things, which are far away from the ice chaos, surrounding us,” said Matvey. “For example. Today I was dreaming about winter Karelia… A dog sled, ten dogs - and me alone."
Matvey also noted how exploration has changed from the days of his father; and named Boris Smolin "the last Mohican." The team says they started the expedition "to demonstrate that Russian people still have capacity for great deeds."
Tomek and Wacek 'wrong-way' voyage update: Almost there - here comes the danger part January 6, on day 306 of their voyage, Tomek and Wacek passed Cape Horn at last. "We’re sailing," was the triumphant message. On their 341 day out, here comes the danger part: seems the Polish sailor has rigged a distilling apparatus on board. "Tomorrow we will fire up..." was the last message - followed by radio silence.
Henk De Velde update: "He wished me a Bon Voyage and I wished him Bon Courage" Henk De Velde arrived Argentina without a mast, and a broken propeller. "I will let you how we manage," he wrote, saying that misfortune is part of all real adventures. Last week, Henk shared a story about another sailor, showing that freedom and money not always are related.
Sam's update, "It's all a bit boring really" The young rower is back on course, oars pointed steady to the south. Sam hopes to equal the record for the youngest person ever to row the Atlantic solo from the Canary Islands to Antigua and reports that there's plenty to do onboard: You can turn the alarm on and off, and if you get bored, there's always the snooze function.