In other news - Pen Hadow's latest claim received a reality check; interviews crowded ExWeb; a surprising paper on adventurers' personalities was published; and M&I buffs got a five-part series to study for at least the next 6 months.
Live and let die on Everest: A study by Forensic Psychiatrist Dr Erik Monasterio Bolivian/New Zealand medical doctor and mountaineer Erik Monasterio submitted a 4-year risk- and personality study of climbers and base jumpers. How come people walked past Sharp, giving more value to the summit than to the life of a fellow mountaineer? If not an answer; Monasterio's research offered some interesting details about adventurers' characteristics:
Turns out that 1/3 of killed base jumpers died of other adventures or drugs/suicide; and when confronted with uncertainty and risk both groups (climbers and jumpers) tend to be confident and relaxed; they are less responsive to danger; have good self-esteem and self-reliance and therefore tend to be high-achievers. As for trauma-related psychological complications; mountaineers had only 10-20% the rate of psychological disturbance to that experienced by fire-fighter and army personnel. Only 3% of mountaineers developed Post Traumatic Stress Disorder, whereas rates in firefighters are up to 20%.
Piolet d'Or Asia: And the winner is... Once again, a Piolet d'Or winner left the community thinking, "there must be something we don't know." Judging from the images at least, the ascent of Garmush West face in Hindukush, Pakistan looked an awful lot like a lunch climb in Colorado. The ascent won over three other climbs, all between 8400 - 8611meter high. The reason for the award was probably that Garmush (6244m) was the only ascent made in pure alpine style, surprised commentators pondered.
ExWeb interview with Fredrik Ericson, "I guess the snow was a bit too good" High altitude ski-mountaineering is blowing up and ExWeb caught up with Fredrik Ericson for an interview about the details of his Dhaula descent; Tomas Olsson; ski-climb strategies and future plans.
ExWeb interview with Doug Stoup: Life in the fast lane and a polar library full of signed books Speaking of sky descents, ExWeb caught up with another of the pioneers; American Doug Stoup. En route to Antarctica from South Africa; Doug spoke about the upcoming polar expedition and his sweet life in the Rockies.
Alternative routes to Antarctica: ExWeb's interview with Rune Gjeldnes As Doug covered his off-the-beaten-track approach to the ice; ExWeb chatted with Rune Gjeldnes who also used ALCI to Antarctica - and a boat out on the opposite side!
Ran Fiennes back to Everest in 2008 In 2003 at age 59, Fiennes suffered a heart attack onboard a plane in UK, and lost his wife to cancer the next year. In 2005, after completing a marathon at age 61 the explorer was headed to Everest with Jagged Globe's outfit - and a new wife. He had to abort only one hour into the final summit push, but already the following year, Ran set up shop on MySpace and took off for Eiger's north face. The climb was successful, Ran bagged the summit along with UK guide Kenton Cool (5-time Everest summiteer) and now he's decided for a comeback on Everest - next year - at age 64, with a terrible fear of heights - and a double heart bypass.
The Mallory and Irvine Mystery - Oxygen issues, a re-examination by Phil Summers Phil is an Australian researcher with a particular interest in the pre war British Everest expeditions. "Seldom inhibited by positive thinking", he's of the view that the Mallory and Irvine mystery will be solved equally off the mountain with sound theory as well as on it. In a massive five-part series, last week Aussie researcher Phil Summers offered his take on M&I's oxygen.
Ooh Faa - Norwegian Everest lady summiteer to ski and climb Vinson In April 2004, 10 Norwegians had succeeded in reaching the summit of Mt. Everest and they were all men. Cecilie Skog and Randi Skaug decided to change that. Both made it. Cecilie went on for a K2 attempt, and later bagged the three poles. Now also Randi is hitting Antarctica - to climb Vinson; with a difference. She'll ski to BC.
Can't blame the money - Pakistan reduced climbing fees to continue in 2008; winter still (almost) free! The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism has announced that the reduced fees will remain through 2008. Winter is still only 05%! This year, Simone La Terra will attempt to climb Nanga Parbat solo during the winter - check in next week for more Karakoram winter news.
Surf and Turf on French menu in South Georgia: Sail, traverse and six summits Three sailors, two climbers and a doc are currently sailing and climbing South Georgia. Agnès Lapeyre, Tristan Guyon Le Bouffy and Isabelle Autissier are navigating into inlets along the coast, meeting up with climbers Lionel Daudet and Philippe Batoux scaling summits on the island.
It's not Ronne, it's not Ronnie - Ronny checks in - with an expedition to boot The famous cook checked in to help sort out the Ronne-Filchner ice-shelf confusion and report that after the PH kitchen is closed; he plans a solo kite trip from South Pole to Hercules Inlet. The cool chef will set out sometime in January (2008) and estimates the kite to take 7days (plus/minus 3days).
Programming job wanted - please email SY Constellation! "And I thought Biscay was big! Over the last seven days, I’ve sailed 200metres… Yes, I’m still in La Coruna. Why? Well, when I say I’ve run out of money, I don’t lie." Nick Jaffe, a 26 year old Australian, departed Holland September 17 to sail aboard his 26ft Constellation back home to Melbourne, Australia. Nick’s boating experience is as modest as his wallet. A contract computer programmer, Nick was lucky to get a job over email. "So, being in a fortunate position where work is achievable if I just have an Internet connection, I’m staying here for a month to refill the boat with beans & diesel," Nick reports.
Mars Ocean Odyssey update - 200 days at sea without resupplies Image showing a skinny Reid drying fish on deck, confirms the perils of already 200 days spent out at sea, and 800 remaining to the goal of 1000. They haven't resupplied or even seen land since leaving New York Harbor on April 21st.
Henk De Velde update: "I see people on the beach, in search of rest or peace or strength" "...and me, I read my book; about Thoma Merton: a monk separated from all and through that rejoined with all ..." On his deck only 100 yards away from civilization on vacation; Henk refuses to go ashore before nine in the morning or after six in the evening. "I don't know if I can ever explain it or if I have to explain things. I know only some understand my reason of leaving, but only some..." he dispatched.
ExWeb special: Pen Hadow's video - the ultimate British record claim? Pen Hadow's false claim brought out not only previous videos made from the Arctic; but also accounts of other projects showcasing the "pioneering" technology that Pen's team claims. Another question is how useful the expedition actually is for global warming. The situation finally casts a shadow on Pen's pervious feat and highlights the pompous and erroneous claims often done by some of his countrymen - causing even Brits to become increasingly desperate.